Hanul lui Hanganu

Recently on a trip with a group of FLEX alumni from Northern Moldova I had the good luck of getting to discover a little gem of a place called Hanul lui Hanganu, a sort of traditional Moldovan cottage/hotel that I am now on a personal mission to make known among the many foreigners (embassy workers, PCVs, their visitors) living in the country. The "rural hotel" as I believe they call it has an open area above that could be used for larger parties and gatherings in warm weather, a large conference room with a really amazing woven branch ceiling (see photo), and comfortable little cottages you reach by crossing quaint little bridges over a small pond (see photo). and I believe they even have a sauna. At the same time, it has amenities such as modern bathrooms that foreigners will appreciate. This is exactly the sort of place that people visiting Moldova would love to see, but it is tucked away in a little village named Lalova and doesn't have a website, so likely the only people who know about it are locals. Case in point: when glancing through Han's (the owner's) guestbook, I happened upon an entry by a couple from California.

"Wow, California," I said. "How did they find you?"

"I dunno," Han said, "I didn't ask."

"Do you have a website?"
"No. I don't really need one, I've got local hunters who come stay here."

"Do you have any idea how many Americans are living in Moldova right now who would love to stay at your place?"

(Shrug)

And thus my one-woman publicity mission began.

The place is run by Han and his wife, with their adorable daughter helping out around the place, and it really has a homey feel as you dine at a table in front of a fireplace in the small room adjoining the kitchen. Each evening after a day spent networking with local organizations and hiking in nearby scenic spots, we returned to find our cottage warm, the fire blazing and hot drinks and snacks awaiting us in the kitchen. We were treated to hot apple and cheese platinta fresh from the oven only a few steps away from our table, spicy izvar (hot mulled wine with sugar and black pepper), fresh galupsi (stuffed cabbage leaves) and sweet pastries filled with rose jam and dusted with powdered sugar. The table was laden with little dishes of honey, jams, and some of the best walnuts I've ever eaten.

Staying at Hanul lui Hanganu also gave me the opportunity to finally check another traditional Moldovan activity off my list: when we retired to bed, we slept on a lejanka, a traditional type of bed built on top of the soba, or clay stove. (The heat from the fireplace heats the tiled walls and base enclosing the bed. See photo.)

So, dear readers, that is my salespitch for Hanul lui Hanganu! Pass on the word, tell your friends, go visit this lovely place not far from Tipova on the banks of the Nistru.

Contact info:

(011373) 25475284
(011373) 69124422 mobile

lalova@mail.md

Lalova 5421 Moldova (in villages, this is how short the addresses are!)